Climbing grades v scale.

Climbing grades v scale National Climbing Classification System (USA): NCCS grades, often called “commitment grades,” indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team. In fact, the only difference between the two systems is that the sport grades are written with a lowercase letter, and the Font grades are written with a uppercase letter. While the grading systems vary by region—like the Fontainebleau system in Europe or the V-scale in the U. Normalerweise steigt der Technical Grade mit dem Adjectival Grade, hingegen steigt der Adjectival Grade nicht automatisch, wenn der technische Anspruch hoch ist. Climbing Ratings Overview Initially developed to describe a full range of backcountry travel, the YDS rates technical rock climbs from 5. It begins to incorporate real finger strength and technique, which can take years to develop. 8 or 5. Indoors, climbing and bouldering gyms use the V Scale, Font Scale, or make up their own rating system. Feb 4, 2015 · Today I would like to spend a few moments talking about the different climbing grade systems used around the world. However, over time, it became clear that Gill’s grading system was incapable of defining accurate grades for the complexity of boulders being climbed. The Font Scale originated in France and is the Nov 3, 2023 · 7a+ Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "7a+ to V scale" conversion, here it is: 7a+ in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V7 in the V scale. The “7a” grade actually comes from the French grading system. a the Vermin Scale) The V-Scale is as follows: V0-V3: Beginner; V4-V6: Intermediate I think this is reflected well in the Font grading scale, with V3-V6 spanning 6 Font grades. 15d). But when the Oct 15, 2021 · Commonalities for boulderers: For boulderers, the Fontainebleau grades are most common, along with the Hueco or V Scale. Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style. May 4, 2020 · The idea of climbing grades is fairly straightforward, but when applied to bouldering, sport climbing, alpine, ice, trad, or mountaineering, the grades change based on the local climbing area or by the international standard. The UIAA "Scale of Overall Assessment" dropped its six Roman numbers in favor of the six adjectival grades of the French Alpine System (to avoid confusion with the "UIAA scale") and dominated alpine climbing grading, while the UIAA "Scale of Difficulty in Aided Climbing" – amended and expanded in Yosemite in the 1990s as "new-wave" grades Grafische Darstellung der Welzenbach-Skala (1926) Fritz Benesch, Autor des Raxführers von 1894, hat bereits in der ersten Auflage seines Führerwerkes den Versuch unternommen, mit einer „Vergleichsweisen Rangeinteilung der Steige nach ihrer Schwierigkeit“ die erste alpine Schwierigkeitsbewertung zu definieren. French System: Apr 13, 2025 · Climbing Difficulty Ranking IntroductionClimbing is a sport of precision, strength, and mental endurance. com The rate of moving up through V grades varies by person and by grade. Any one who has been climbing for a while has probably been confronted with the different systems. The above appears courtesy of the American Alpine Journal. The system is primarily used in Australia and New Zealand. Occasionalmente, un più (cioè V2+) indica che un problema di boulder è sul lato più duro del grado, mentre un meno (cioè V2-) indica che una salita è sul lato più facile o “più Es bietet auch einen überblick über die National Climbing Classification System (NCCS) und Beihilfen klettern grading-Systeme. Bouldering Grades Standards vary among climbing areas. Aug 24, 2023 · These problems are usually scaled by difficulty using the V-scale or the Fontainebleau system. Sport climbing involves climbing with the aid of pre-placed bolts or anchors for protection. The subjective nature of grades does not go away though by adding a range. Here is a guide to a consensus of bouldering grades: (climbing experience varies, this is not specific to every climber) If you’re new to the world of indoor climbing, you might think climbing grades are just friendly suggestions about the difficulty of a route. The V-scale, developed in the 1980s by climber John “Vermin” Sherman, is a widely used grading system in North America. A legendary boulderer at the time, John Sherman, created the ‘V’ grade system – the ‘V’ stood for ‘Verm or Vermin’ which was his nickname at the time. In place of the V-scale, we have indexed each problem within a color range. Universal grade conversion Back to contents . Climbing grades are subjective due to various In 2016, Alex sent me a link to his page on Bouldering Grades, which he compares with the Yosemite Decimal System and sport climbing. Use this chart as a rough guide to compare climbing and bouldering grades in other parts of the world. Bouldering grades begin at V0 Nov 3, 2023 · 6b Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "6b to V scale" conversion, here it is: 6b in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V4 in the V scale. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 7a V6 7a+ V7 7b V7 / V8 (Note: As always, grading re A question for those who climb at Blochaus (particularly in Sydney, but also Melbourne and Canberra). This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. If you’re curious how the difficulty of our routes compares, this chart translates our Spot grades into the popular V-Grade scale, developed by John “the Vermin” Sherman. How the V-Scale Works. ratings and will also explain the V Scale, its counterpart in the U. Bouldering grades fall under the Hueco Scale, aka the V Scale, and look something like this: Letter. What Are Climbing Grades? Climbing grades serve as a standardized system for rating the difficulty of climbing routes. To put this into English, V10 corresponds to Font 7C+. 13) editorial comments on the standard YDS classes Feb 17, 2014 · The average top-rope grade is slightly above 5. 11d and a 5. These systems assign ratings to climbing routes across the United States and many other areas around the world. , bouldering is typically graded using V-scale, while top rope climbs are graded using the YDS scale (Yosemite Decimal System). The “V” stands for “Vermin” or “Verm,” which was the nickname of a renowned boulderer and the inventor of the V-scale, John Sherman. The grading developed on its own independent of the V-system and started with outdoors. Why Climbing Grades Are Subjective. They're the way climbers objectively measure the difficulty of different climbs. It’s colour coded but with no reference at all to any of the more formal grading scales. Routes may feel substantially harder than their grade indicates depending on the weather, the length of the route, the type of rock, the whims of the first ascensionist, any number of factors. Boulder werden normalerweise nach ihren schwersten Stellen bewertet, wohingegen beim Routenklettern sowohl die Ausdauerkomponente als auch der Anspruch durch das Einhängen der Zwischensicherungen wie Expressschlingen, Klemmkeile oder Friends eine große Rolle spielen können. ). Roughly these are S, 4a; HS, 4b; VS, 4c; HVS, 5a; E1, 5b; E2, 5c. Mar 17, 2023 · A 5 Font bouldering grade converts to a V1 in the v scale. In the United States for sport climbing and other forms of rock climbing we use the Yosemite Decimal System. Mar 30, 2023 · For bouldering, on the other hand, there are varying systems in place. I’ll talk more about each of these in a little bit. The most widely used system for rating bouldering problems in the USA is the "V" or "Hueco" Scale. The V scale includes a few extra symbols for grades below V1. Nov 3, 2023 · 8c Boulder to V Scale: Inquiring about the "8c to V scale" conversion? Here it is succinctly: an 8c in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system typically corresponds to V15 in the V scale. They provide climbers with a consistent way to communicate the level of challenge associated with a particular climb. Holds are usually big, and the problems are easy to read. This is written in whole numbers, i. There are different types of indoor climbing grades that are used for various climbing disciplines such as bouldering, top-rope climbing, and lead climbing. Grade conversion between the two scales isn’t easy—the Font Scale has more grade options than the V Scale, and both scales are subject to regional differences and individual climbers’ body types, opinions, and skill sets—but in general, here’s how the two scales Again, this is all based off my single experience at one gym in Japan, but if the grades at said gym were representative of the grades at gyms as a whole in Japanese gyms, then the grade you can climb at a Japanese gym you should also be able to climb at a boulder field most anywhere in the world, assuming it wasn't a boulder field that was I climb at one of the Climbing Hangar gyms (UK) and have never been able to get the grading system totally straight. Nov 3, 2023 · 9a Boulder to V Scale: For climbers inquiring about the "9a to V scale" correlation, here's the succinct response: 9a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system corresponds approximately to V17 in the V scale. 1 and currently go up to 5. – A climb with an ascent of 800 meters (2,600 feet). Feb 26, 2021 · Font grade. The Yosemite Decimal Scale for Auto Belay/Top Rope/Lead Climbing and the Hueco/V Scale for Bouldering our grades with the outdoor climbing grades of surrounding We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Rumour has it that his publisher wouldn't go ahead with the book without Dec 28, 2021 · The aptly-named Fontainebleau scale started in the de facto birthplace of bouldering. 0 through 5. As a help, climbs of a particular adjectival grade, will often have an associated average technical grade. Named for pioneer boulderer, John "Vermin" Sherman who climbed the amazing boulders of Hueco Tanks, TX, the V Scale denotes the level of difficulty of a boulder problem. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 8c+ V16 9a V17 (Note: Remember that climbing It's way more info than you likely want, broken down by gender and age when people started climbing, but most relevant is figure 9 which says on average people improve about a Font grade per year (which is somewhat less than a v grade) for about 2. Grade VII: Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing. e. The Australian climbing grade scale for technical scrambling and rock routes, another open-ended rating system, runs from 1 (~YDS 3) to 39 (5. The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. How can something be both objective and subjective? It's a bit of a paradox, but we'll unravel it. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. Grade V: Typ­i­cal­ly requires an overnight on the route. Progress between grades is relatively quick as basic technique is easy to implement. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 6c V5 6c+ V5 / V6 7a V6 (Note: As always, grading remai Bouldering grades are a way to measure the difficulty of climbing problems, helping climbers gauge challenges and track progress. Sport Climbing Grades. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 6b V4 6b+ V4 / V5 6c V5 (Note: As alwa Jan 18, 2022 · The Jimmy Z Scale, superimposed on existing climbing-rating scales. Nov 3, 2023 · 6b+ Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically looking for the "6b+ to V scale" conversion, the answer is straightforward: 6b+ in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system corresponds roughly to V4 / V5 in the V scale. Mar 7, 2021 · But if you are serious about this amazing, adventurous sport, you’ll need to know all about climbing grades and bouldering ratings. In contrast, bouldering grades use the V-scale or Fontainebleau scale, as mentioned earlier. General timelines indicate that from bouldering day one, getting to V4 can take a year, V5 two years, V6 three years, and five years to V7. – 15 to 20 hours of climbing. The V-Scale is a numerical grading system that ranges from V0 (easiest) to V16 (hardest). Gesamtbewertung Trad Climbing Aus der Kombination von Adjectival & Technical Grade lässt sich schon recht gut auf den Charakter der Route schließen: Eine Route mit E1 5b entspricht Mar 24, 2022 · The V-grades and French Fontainebleau grades that are today’s gold standards took time to disseminate, with other scales proposed along the way. The V scale is a grading system used in bouldering to assign a difficulty rating to a problem. The V-Scale. The UK initially adopted the ‘Font’ grading system and then, over time, the ‘V’ grading system. Aug 23, 2024 · As a result, the easiest grade on the V-scale, V0, is not technically very easy or, to be precise, is not necessarily a grade that beginner climbers would enjoy starting on. Both 6b and 6b+ graded boulders in the Jun 23, 2024 · Indoor climbing grades are used to indicate the difficulty level of a climbing route. 6b to V-scale. This chart accurately compares the French scale with the YDS, but neither of those scales accurately corresponds with aid or water ice grades. You can have exact grades and know there will be V4s that are soft or hard, or may or may not suit your style. Feb 19, 2021 · Bouldering and the V Scale What Is the V Scale? While the YDS is used to grade pretty much every roped rock climbing route in America and beyond, bouldering utilizes a completely different system. At the same time, the “V scale,” or “Vermin scale,” has taken hold in the U. (I'm defining one quarter-grade to be the distance between a 5. – Long rock sections of Grades III and IV and up to 50 meters (160 feet) of Grade V. Bouldering Grades V-Scale (or Hueco Scale) Understanding the V-Scale. Class 5 grades are what we’re going to focus on in this article as they represent the climbing grades. Understanding Climbing Grades: 1. Font Scale The two most popular grading scales are the V-Grade system, which is popular in the U. 15d) Bouldering Climbing Grade Systems: The V Scale and the Font Scale. For a basic overview of how the grades work, check out this article with Climbing Magazine . So my country uses the french scale for indoor sports climbing. 11c, with an SD of 2. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and this has been heightened with the inclusion of sport climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic schedule. – Up to 800 meters (2,600 feet) of ice sections up to Grade V. (YDS) to grade routes, while we use the V-Scale to grade boulder problems. 0 to 5. The standard for the 1級 was actually the outdoor boulder Ninja Gaeshi (“The wall that ninjas can climb”) in Mitake which also became the standard difficulty for an 1級 indoors. For many years, climbing primarily focused on routes, so there was no need for a separate grading system. The name of the scale was shortened to the Font scale, but it is also a numerical scale. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard tech­ni­cal climb­ing. I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of… Read More »Climbing Grade Bouldering grades are designed to give climbers an approximate idea of the difficulty of a route. From the Yosemite Decimal System that offers a glimpse at the rockface’s difficulty level and degree of challenge to the V Scale, which gives an idea of the bouldering rating, it’s essential to understand each so you know precisely what you’re in for. official@gmail. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 6b V4 6b+ V4 / V5 6c V5 (Note: As always, grading remai Apr 27, 2025 · Mixed climbing grades generally go from M1 to M12, with M13-16 in existence but not typically used. South African rock climbing grades are very similar to Australian, with the exception that the upper end of the scale is currently at 41. This scale is used outdoors and in climbing walls across the UK and Europe, and originated in Fontainebleau, a vast collection of sandstone boulders just south of Paris. Meaning that for example if you look at a crag in Australia you will most likely see sport and trad climbing grades displayed in Ewbanks and bouldering grades in V-scale. Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco “V” grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, and more. 8, which are additionally split into three separate categories using a plus (+) or a minus (-). Nov 3, 2023 · 7a Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "7a to V scale" conversion, here it is: 7a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V6 in the V scale. The V-scale was born in Hueco Tanks, Texas in the 1980s. These help ensure Darth Grader remains accurate and accessible, regardless of climbing style or grade, from moderate beginner routes to the most challenging Apr 11, 2025 · V-grades or the V-scale (also sometimes called the 'Hueco' scale) was established in 1991 by American bouldering pioneer John 'Verm' Sherman - that's where the V comes from! Sherman used the scale to grade problems in his book Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 8a+ V12 8b V13 8b+ V14 (Note: Remember that grading is subjective a Apr 27, 2025 · Climbers between two different grading systems. Top-Roping Ratings The UIAA grade is the official grade scale of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. The scale begins at V0 (beginner level) and progresses upward (V1, V2, etc. Feb 14, 2024 · Bouldering, unlike sport climbing with its myriad grading systems, simplifies things with two main grading scales – the V Scale and Font Scale. We recommend Instantprint where an A1 poster costs around £16 (+VAT and delivery). Bouldering grades are typically indicated by the V-scale, ranging from V0 to V16. He introduced this grading scale by releasing the bouldering guidebook Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide in 1991. ), with each higher number indicating a more challenging problem. The V scale was developed in the USA and is a system that currently starts with VB for the simplest bouldering problems and goes all the way up to V17 for super experienced professionals. Jan 28, 2022 · Australian Climbing Grades. com. Both scales are open-ended, but the V Scale is often said to be more straightforward. As its name suggests, the scale was born in the legendary bouldering forest of Mar 17, 2012 · Bouldering is a bit different than some other forms of rock climbing and it has its own grades, the V-scale, for defining the difficulty of the climb. For the most part, understanding the two different scales and comparing them doesn’t matter, however, here are three common reasons you may want to compare the two grading scales: Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The full document ‘UIAA Scales of Difficulty in Climbing’ analyses the main systems used to classify the difficulty of climbing on different terrains such as rock, ice, and mixed terrain, trying to offer a starting point to create a minimum of historical and critical knowledge of those that are commonly known as “Scale of Difficulty. B1, B2, B3, B4, etc. The two systems correspond to each other more or less directly. a the Vermin Scale) Nov 8, 2023 · The Font scale, or the Fontainebleau scale, is named after the famous French climbing area called Fontainebleau. This suggests that the difficulty can be on the higher end of V8 or the lower end of V9, depending on the specific Apr 27, 2025 · In terms of grading systems, the V scale is in proximity to the French Font-grade system, which is more commonly used in Europe. The most challenging grade on the V-scale is currently V17, highlighting the scale’s capacity to classify extreme bouldering challenges. Jun 5, 2023 · The two most popular grading systems are the V-Scale and the Font-Scale. The V-scale is open-ended, with the hardest bouldering The UIAA grade is the official grade scale of the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. May 31, 2020 · Climbing Grades vs. Rockfax Colour Codes. Both 6C+ and 7A on the Font Scale convert to around a V6 on the V Scale, making converting Download Bouldering Grade PDF – Comparison between Font, V and UK tech grades. Please turn off your ad blocker. At this stage, you have most likely only been bouldering for a few months. V-Grade Vs. Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. A single grade gives you a better idea of the difficulty than a vague range, which isn't much better than having no grade at all. The V-scale is most commonly used in North America, while the Fontainebleau system originated in France. As the dominant scale for bouldering. The Fontainebleau Scale is used more frequently in Europe. Bouldering Scales. Maybe they’re there to encourage you—like a cute way of saying, “Hey, give this a shot!” The French use this system for most things (apart from bouldering, for which they use the Font scale, and big Alpine routes, for which they use the UIAA scale, and mixed sport climbing, for which they use the M scale) and the British use it for sport climbing, where seriousness isn't a factor. Scroll down, or click here to view: the basic YDS: Class 1-5 for rock climbing (not ice) YDS fifth class subdivisions (5. Route-climbing grades begin at 5. Contact us. 10a is easier than 5. In North America, bouldering problems use a different scale than climbing routes. It was developed by John “Vermin” Sherman in the 1990s and is the current system used in Australian outdoor bouldering. DETAILS OF UIAA GRADES OF DIFFICULTY IN ROCK FREE CLIMBING GRADE UIAA LOWER LEVEL (-) UPPER (+) GRADE UIAA READING DESCRIPTION OF UIAA GRADES I -balance and hand and foot+ I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. Nov 3, 2023 · 6c Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "6c to V scale" conversion, here it is: 6c in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V5 in the V scale. Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion. Let's take a look at how to read grades on the French scale by examining the grade 7a+. Both 6a and 6a+ graded boulders in the font system convert into a V3 bouldering grade in the North American V-scale. Oct 12, 2020 · Converting between the V Scale and the Font Scale takes some effort since the Font Scale has so many more grade options than the V Scale. We will have a look at the 6 most common grading systems: Sep 12, 2016 · The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past three decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. The higher the number, the tougher the climb. "Grades are subjective" - OK, that's out of the way. The V Scale Like the Font system, it is open-ended. This scale assigns "V" grades to boulder problems, ranging from V0 to V16, with higher numbers indicating greater difficulty. 15. The easiest grade is VB which indicates a beginner route, after this only numbers are used. Letters (up to C) further distinguish between grades; for example, 5. Yes, we know the definitions of subjective and objective. A quick mention: VB is sometimes used to describe a boulder problem easier than V0. Anyways, since I had a hard time I just made one. Nov 3, 2023 · 6a Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "6a to V scale" conversion, here it is: 6a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V3 in the V scale. The American V-scale and the French Font scale are the two international standards for rating the difficulty of boulder problems. Grade IV: A full day of tech­ni­cal climb­ing, gen­er­al­ly at least 5. The ‘V’ grades go from V0 to V15, and are potentially open ended. In the U. Many gyms use a coloured V-grade range system, wherein the colour of the tape or holds on a problem correspond to a range of V-grades. No, we're not trying to seem all intellectual (okay, maybe a little bit in climbing or high mountaineering exploits, but it becomes an instrument to transmit correct information to create a certain type of mountaineering culture. g. 10c. For a more in depth look at all the different climbing grade systems, check out this article from Explorers Web. The lower the 級 level, the more difficult. 10a and a 5. Nov 3, 2023 · 8a Boulder to V Scale: For climbers looking to understand the "8a to V scale" conversion, 8a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is generally considered equivalent to a V11 in the V scale. Just my opinion though Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Sehen Sie unsere internationale Kletterklasse Vergleichstabelle zeigt, wie Noten in den USA zu denen im Ausland konvertieren. Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing. From V0 to V9, you have a 1:1 correspondence with YDS and V. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 6c V5 6c+ V5 / V6 7a V6 (Note: As always, grading remai Nov 3, 2023 · 7a Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "7a to V scale" conversion, here it is: 7a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V6 in the V scale. ” The V-scale also uses “+” or “-” for further distinction. Feb 25, 2025 · In the U. Please visit them on the web at www. By nature, the two are difficult to compare — route grades may gain difficulty from endurance, while boulder problems tend to emphasize power. Nov 8, 2023 · The Font scale, or the Fontainebleau scale, is named after the famous French climbing area called Fontainebleau. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 6a+ V3 / V4 6b V4 6b+ V4 / V5 (Note: As always, grading UIAA grading system – Grade I - A scramble and the easiest form of rock climbing. As I started to rock climb I got confused by these different rating systems and their Oct 23, 2023 · The Bouldering V Scale. The current hardest route in a M13 at Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, Canada. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 8b+ V14 8c V15 8c+ V16 (Note: Remember that climbing grades are sub Jun 8, 2020 · How do Climbing Grades Work? Climbing has a bewildering array of grading systems. Arguably, this is where bouldering began, and the open-ended grade scale that was developed ranges from 1A to 9A (at time of writing). Aug 18, 2017 · It is named after a famous outdoor bouldering area called Fontainebleau in France, just outside Paris. Nov 13, 2023 · Australian Grading System: The Australian Grading System is similar to the YDS, but uses a different scale. In general, theCrag displays grades as they are entered and in the area specific context. Unlike the V scale, the Font climbing grades also include letters to help differentiate between easier and more challenging boulder problems. *Note that when climbing, you climb "routes," when bouldering, you climb Mar 25, 2024 · Sport climbing grades are typically denoted using the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) in the United States, ranging from 5. 8 quarter-grades. International Climbing Grade Comparison Chart. Jan 31, 2025 · Additionally, the tool bridges different grading systems—such as the French scale, the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), the V-scale, and the Fontainebleau—using correspondence tables. The Bouldering V Scale (a. It ranges from 1 to 34, with additional letters (a, b, c) used to further refine the difficulty. In my eyes, that makes your chart way way sandbagged for the lower V grades, and way cruiser for the higher V grades. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 7c+ V10 8a V11 8a+ V12 (Note: Keep in mind that grading is Dec 29, 2020 · Indoors, climbing and bouldering gyms use the V Scale, Font Scale, or make up their own rating system. 6a to V-scale. – Sections of snow and ice or Bouldering grades: V-Scale Fondata da John Vermin Sherman nella mecca del bouldering di Hueco Tanks, la scala V varia in difficoltà da V0 (più facile) a V16. I don't know if I agree with chart. Some gyms use the classic V-grade system, marking each boulder problem with a V-grade on a tag or piece of tape at its start. The French Grading Scale can be used to determine both sport climbs and boulders. Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route. Use the grading system as a guide to find routes that challenge you in a fun and rewarding way Nov 3, 2023 · 7b+ Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "7b+ to V scale" conversion, here it is: 7b+ in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V8/V9 in the V scale. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 5+ V2 6a V3 6a+ V4 (Note: As always, grading can be som Grade II: Half a day for the tech­ni­cal por­tion. I climbed in two separate countries pre- and post- injury, and am trying to satisfy my curiosity with numbers about whether I've come back to around my pre-injury Fontainebleau Boulder Grade (Font Scale): The Font scale is has been most popular in various parts of Asia and Europe since they first came into being. May 26, 2020 · The bouldering grading scale is used both indoors and outdoors. In the 1950s, legendary godfather of American bouldering, John Gill, was grading boulders on a super simple scale ascending from B1 to B3. Like the V scale, the font scales are also rated by numbers such as 1,2,3 and so on. Don’t get caught up on grades. I was reading and watching a lot about the V5/V6 plateau that most intermediate climbers hit, and I was expecting this to be around the 6b on the french scale. To add to that, in Australia most gyms don’t bother with grading problems beyond very broad colour difficulty ranges (and very rarely including V estimates). Vertical climbing grades start at 11 and work up to 39 (comparable to 9c/5. 0 (easiest) to 5. Jul 8, 2024 · The Hueco Scale. Dec 9, 2024 · Kann ich Boulder-Schwierigkeitsgrade aufs Klettern übertragen? Die Antwort lautet: Nur bedingt. The average bouldering grade is slightly under V5, with an SD of 1. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least with a difficulty of 5. The two most commonly used scales are the V-scale and the Font-scale. 7. Grade II – Here climbing begins, that requires climbing movement - holds and features for hands and feet are abundant. The two main bouldering grading systems are the V Scale and the Font Scale (short for the Fontainebleau Scale). V-scale: The V-scale is a bouldering grading system used primarily in the United When we opened our first gym in 2002, we separated outdoor climbing grades and indoor climbing grades, allowing climbers to focus on the nuances of each style. The V Scale is similar to the Font Scale in that is uses numbers and letters to grade routes, however there are no pluses. Apr 10, 2025 · The Fontainebleau Scale, often referred to as ‘the Font Scale’, ascends in a similar way to the V Scale, until you hit Font 6, when our old friends a, b and c, and the plus and minus signs are wheeled out once more to indicate slight increases in difficulty. You need to use your hands for support or balance and footholds must be trusted. Intermediate Sep 16, 2021 · Outdoors, the two main grading scales are the V Scale and Font Scale. Could anyone who also climbs at these gyms give me a rough rundown of how the colours relate to the V scale? Bouldering, a form of climbing that focuses on short, powerful routes without ropes, has its own grading system known as the Hueco "V" Scale. The Fontainebleau grades have a similar range as the trad climbing scales, generally ranging from 1-8, while the V scale uses letters V, B, and O, before adding numbers 1 and up starting at intermediate difficulty level. The grades in the tables are assigned a colour code that spans the various grading systems. The "V" scale is used for bouldering routes, with V0 representing the easiest and V17 meaning the most difficult. The YDS does not apply to bouldering routes; instead, either the French Scale (usually referred to by its other name, the Fontainebleau Scale or Font Scale for short) or the Hueco V Scale is used. Originally a 6 grade scale from I to VI, the scale is now left open-ended. Pros of V scale bouldering grades: It is the simplest system without multiple letters and covering a range of numbers more distinct from other route grades. What grade ranges do you think the colours match up with? No grade moralising. 10b, or between a 5. On one hand, sport climbing grades provide a scale of difficulty which enables relatively easy comparison. Every bouldering grade begins with a V. Each one is largely assigned to a particular discipline, and understanding how they work and relate to one another can be very confusing. See relevant content for outdoorrackbuilder. It was developed by John Sherman in the late 1980s and ranges from V0 – V16, with higher numbers representing increasingly more challenging climbs. As we touched upon earlier in the article, there are two primary scales – the V Scale and Font Scale. There are other ones, like the B-Scale, the P-Scale, the Joshua Tree Scale, and a few others, but you don’t really need to know those as they are not really used. org. The two main bouldering grade systems in the United States are the V-Scale and the Fontainebleau Scale. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. Feb 21, 2017 · Climbing Grades 101. 7 (or the equivalent snow/alpine grade) Grade V: The route will likely require an overnight stay in the middle of the technical portion. Peak B-grades are roughly one level easier than V-grades (e. Whether you're scaling indoor walls or conquering outdoor crags, understanding the intricacies of climbing difficulty rankings is essential for progression and safety. climbinglibrary. 12b. . Jan 6, 2024 · Within class 5, you’ll find gradations with decimals and letters, like 5. The V Scale was created by a climber named John “Verm” Sherman. The US and Europe are rocky when it comes to agreeing on a bouldering scale, so here are two different grading systems and what to expect. bouldering world. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. Grade III: Most of a day for the tech­ni­cal por­tion. This means that for some grades, such as V6, there are multiple Font Scale grades that fall into the category of V6. , (Foto: Maria Ly) Bouldergrade: V-Scale Going back to the combined grade, you should see how the combination of these two grades goes to suggest the difficulty of a climb, and what type of difficulty this might be. Essentially, the higher the number is, the harder the problem. Today, this scale single-handedly dominates the bouldering grade scales alongside the V scale. Bouldering vs. The reason for having two systems stems from the history of the sport. But here's the twist-they're also subjective. k. Indoors, grades seem almost plush compared to how they read on rock. The Jan 18, 2022 · The Jimmy Z Scale, superimposed on existing climbing-rating scales. The bouldering grades can be broken down into the following categories (using the V scale): Beginner: V0 – V2. 15c. 15 (hardest). V8 was equivalent to B9). Grade III – The rock structure is becoming steeper or even Rope Climbing grades use a simplified version of the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) Bouldering grades use the V-Scale. Grade II: Half a day of technical climbing; Grade III: Most of the day will be required for the technical portion of the route. While there are other scales like the B-Scale, P-Scale, Joshua Tree Scale, and others, they don’t command the same prominence. —all aim to reflect a combination of physical and technical demands. In bouldering, the V-Scale stands out. These bouldering grades differ from the grades used in traditional rock climbing, and use many different systems including: Huevo "V" grades-or the V-scale, Fontainebleau technical grades (Font-scale), route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. ” Aug 30, 2021 · Note that we’ve omitted some rarely seen scales for brevity and that the only climbing grades worth comparing are those that rate free climbing. Jun 5, 2023 · The climbing scale has remained almost the same but with additional grades added as more and more climbers broke the barriers of hard climbing. The required physicality to breach V6 moves beyond just a good level of fitness and strength. Starting from the easiest, they are: VB, V0-, V0, V0+. For example, a gym might grade problems from 0 to 4, with 0 being the easiest problems designed for beginners and 4 Jun 23, 2024 · The V-Scale quickly gained popularity for its clear and consistent grading system, making it easier for climbers to compare difficulty levels across different climbs. It is especially clear and less Feb 9, 2024 · There are 3 main bouldering grading systems: V scale; Font scale; UK grading; V Scale. In fact, it was John Gill’s B-system, advanced over a half-century ago as Gill devoted himself almost exclusively to bouldering, that set the stage for today’s popular, open-ended V-system. Mar 4, 2025 · The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), and the V-Scale or “Hueco Scale”. Canadian Winter Commitment Grade: Jun 28, 2024 · “VB” denotes “V-beginner,” easier than “V0. Bouldering Grades. Apr 29, 2024 · The most common free-climbing grading scales are the French, US or Yosemite Decimal System, and the UK scale. Free climbing grades are generally understood to reflect the hardest move or section on a particular route. Nov 3, 2023 · 8b Boulder to V Scale: For those looking to quickly understand the "8b to V scale" conversion, 8b in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is typically equivalent to V13 in the V scale. This article will focus on U. Much like the French sport climbing grading system, the Font scale designates grades using a numeral (3 to 9), a letter (A to C) and - or + symbol. Once you get beyond the easiest grades, V-scale and Font grades line up pretty nicely. and the Font Scale which is popular in Europe. 12a). The same standard for indoors. While these grading systems are widely used, they are subjective and have even evolved over time, so we often hear about the inconsistency climbers see between different climbing Feb 28, 2023 · The V-Scale will sometimes show a plus or minus after the grade indicating whether it is harder or easier. 5 years and then it drops off to about a quarter grade per year by five and near zero improvement Oct 15, 2021 · The two bouldering grading systems are the V Scale (used in the United States) and the Font Scale (used outside the US). Here's the link if you're interested. Instead, we have adapted a color system that loosely corresponds to overlapping V-scale grade ranges. , climbing grades are divided into two systems: the V-grade scale for bouldering and the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) for roped routes. Grade VIII and above: The hardest routes in Scotland. Mar 9, 2023 · Bouldering Grade Conversions – V Scale to Font Scale. Some gyms appear on top logger as well and have estimated V grades, as well as user submitted scores. Other similarly priced services are available. This is the only grade scale you’ll ever need. For example, a gym might grade problems from 0 to 4, with 0 being the easiest problems designed for beginners and 4 being the most difficult designed for advanced climbers. Grade VI: Vertical ice and highly technical mixed routes. The V Scale was developed in the US and is an open-ended system currently starting with V0 for the easiest bouldering problems and going all the way up to V17 for the super-skilled pros. The Peak District in Britain is an important bouldering area and had developed a bouldering scale that was very similar to the V-grade scale except the pre-fix "B" was used and it started at B1 (i. There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. The higher the grade, the longer it takes to get to the next one. The V-Scale is the most commonly used grading system for bouldering in America. Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5. It’s older than the V scale, which John “Vermin” Sherman developed in Texas in the 1990s. The Jimmy Z Scale “Jimmy Z” was a nickname for a member of our college bouldering and Rifle crew, Jim, who hailed from Tennessee and had the thick Southern drawl to prove it. Bouldering Grades If you’re familiar with the V Scale , you might be wondering how boulder problems stack up against route difficulty. Dec 9, 2024 · Let's talk about climbing grades. So, in the 90s, a group of boulderers added an additional grade at the bottom of the scale—VB, or “V-Beginner”—to capture the many, many fun problems that were Mar 27, 2023 · The V-Scale is a climbing grading system used for rating bouldering routes. It’s worth noting that the YDS begins at Class 1: Class 1 – 2 are used for hikes and trail runs, Class 3 for scrambling and Class 4 is for the in between ground between scrambling and easy climbing. This guide uses neither. Grade 6A – A climb with an elevation above 3,600 meters (12,000 feet). A 5+ (sometimes graded as 5b or 5c) can be converted into a V2 bouldering grade on the V-scale. S. Worldwide, more climbers use the “Font” scale than the V scale, but many are familiar with both. 5 bouldering grades. The grade is based on a consensus of how hard a particular boulder problem or route is to complete. americanalpineclub. These ranking systems, often referred to as grading systems, provide a standardized way to evaluate the challenge a route Grade V: Sustained ice to 80º or mixed climbs with linked hard moves. Why? Because boulderers are shaped like V’s, with broad shoulders and very skinny legs that come to a point at their feet. srt nmfeuj wjrmvbm fwy fdcfxpz kwgbg yliyvlz mijew vex apenehh rcqw luftnc vqju goxfvhp swywtceew